Ullapool
On the A835, 15 miles north of Ullapool is an educational
farm showing traditional Highland farm animals. The Highland and Rare Breed Farm
near Elphin hosts Hebridean ewes, Soay Sheep, Scot's Dumpy hens and, of course, magnificently
hairy Highland cows.
On the north shore of Loch Broom stands the still
important fishing village of Ullapool. Now Russian factory ships or 'Klondiker's'
congest the sheltered loch. Sea fishing and boat trips to the Summer Isles are popular
from here and ferries to Stornoway, on the Outer Hebridean island of Lewis, leave
regularly. The local museum has gathered evidence of life in Wester Ross over the
centuries.
Corrieshalloch Gorge, 12 miles (19km) south-east of
Ullapool on the A835 near Braemore is a dramatic ravine 1 mile long and 200ft (61m)
deep. It contains the Falls of Measach which drop 150ft (46m). There is a suspension
bridge from which to acquire a safe and spectacular view.
The A835 continues back towards Dingwall and Inverness
but it is possible to branch west on the A832 past Little Loch Broom to the spectacular
Gruinard Bay. Gruinard Island was infected with anthrax during World War II but is
now decontaminated and returned to its former owner.
The coast road west
Following the A832, the popular Inverewe Gardens just outside
the village of Poolewe is a northern outpost for touring coach parties. There are
some 2,500 species including palm trees, Himalayan lilies and giant forget-me-nots
from the South Pacific all growing at the same latitude as Siberia. The reason for
this flowering profusion, besides the care taken by the National Trust for Scotland
who now run the gardens, is the warm waters of the Gulf Stream that bathe so much
of Scotland's west coast.
The holiday village of Gairloch is only about 7 miles
(11km) away. Unaffected by the Clearances, Gairloch held on to west Highland life
until the tourist invasion. The Gairloch Heritage Museum gives a good insight into
the times before holiday homes. There is an exceptional café and gift/book
shop in the main square.
The road through the village leads to Big Sand, an
excellent camp-site if you like dramatic views over to the Torridon range and miles
of smooth beach. Gairloch Golf Club is an excellent 9-hole course with a dramatic
Par 5,8th/17th that could easily be one of the best in the country.
The road down to Kinlochewe is blessedly straight
and fast compared to those further north with views over one of Scotland's prettiest
stretches of water, Loch Maree with the dramatic mountain backdrop of Slioch (3215
feet). At the village of Kinlochewe, it is time for more single track roads unless
you wish to opt out and return to Inverness. You will be missing, of course, some
of the most dramatic of the north-west's panoramas.
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