The Trossachs
From March to September, Callander, the capital of
the Trossachs on the A84, 8 miles (13km) from Doune, is choked with cars and pedestrians.
It is, however, a suitable base and starting point for a tour of the Trossachs with
good accommodation and restaurants.
Callander
The Trossachs and Rob Roy Visitor Centre is situated in a
converted church in the middle of town. Rob Roy MacGregor (1671-1734), a Highland
rapscallion, made a nuisance of himself to the local gentry and passed on the booty
to his less affluent clansmen. Cattle rustling and smuggling were his main forte,
before disappearing behind waterfalls or hidden caves when the heat was on. Noted
for his exceptionally long arms, his antics might have passed unnoticed was it not
for Sir Walter Scott's novel.
There are low-level walks around the town such as
a stroll up to Bracklinn Falls on the River Keltie, an easy round-trip of 2 miles
(3km) past the golf course east of town. Flanked by the River Teith and overshadowed
by Ben Ledi, the town was also known to millions in the 60s as the 'Tannochbrae'
of Dr Finlay's Casebook, though actually filmed in Auchtermuchty in Fife.
One great way of exploring the Trossachs is by jumping
on the Trossachs Trundler, a genuine 1950s country bus, conductor and all, that takes
you on a round-trip tour of some of the area's beauty spots. You can hop off anywhere
for a cup of tea or a hike and catch the next Trundler a couple of hours later.
The Trundler provides a summer service between Aberfoyle
and Callander, calling at the steamer pier at Loch Katrine where it is timed to link
with the sailing's of the Sir Walter Scott. Loch Katrine was raised 17ft (5m) and
became the reservoir for the Greater Glasgow area.
Aberfoyle
Aberfoyle is the other Trossachs town, lying between
the Highland grandeur of the Menteith Hills and Ben Lomond. The town of Aberfoyle
is much more relaxed than Callander. There is a marvellous 18 hole golf course and,
next door to it, one of the best restaurants in the area owned by popular television
chef, Nick Nairn, the Braeval Old Mill, which is so popular that booking ahead is
strongly advised (Tel 01877 382711).
The Scottish Wool Centre gives an insight into the
'beastie' that replaced much of the Scottish Highlands human population in a 'theatre'
production with the four-legged supplanters being the stars.
Rob Roy's Cave, one of his hiding-places from the
government soldiers, is a pleasant drive away on the Loch Lomond road to Inversnaid.
Lake of Menteith
Carrying on along the A81 from Aberfoyle, heading
east, is found the Port of Menteith which looks over Scotland's only lake, the Lake
of Menteith, a simple misnomer made by a Dutch surveyor.
On one of the islands stands Inchmahome Priory, reached
by a small ferry boat, much as did the young Mary Queen of Scots, in 1547. Following
the Scots defeat by the English at the Battle of Pinkie, 4-year-old Mary was hidden
here for 3 weeks before she was spirited off to France to prevent her marriage to
the sickly son on Henry VIII. The priory is in ruin with some parts still quite well
preserved along with well-tended lawns.
Striking north again on the A84 past the long roadside
stretch of Loch Lubnaig, Balquidder is a tiny village on the way to Loch Viol, just
off the A84. Its significance is supported by the graves of Rob Roy, his wife Helen
and their two sons placed outside the old ruined church. This was Rob Roy's home
territory though his adventures ranged well south into the Stirling area. He died
in his bed at the age of 63 having evaded the hangman's gibbet.
Lochearnhead is the next stop, an attractive and busy
village with plenty of activity. There is boating, board-sailing, Canadian canoeing
and a water-skiing centre making the water at this end of Loch Earn almost boil on
a good day. There are also gift shops and restaurants.
The A85 runs along Loch Earn's north shore into Tayside.
Loch Earn is a long stretch of water surrounded by the high peaks of Ben Vorlich
3,231ft (985m) to the south and Ben More 3852ft (1175m) to the west. The loch is
6 miles (10km) long running from Lochearnhead in the west and St Fillans to the east.
The road to Killin climbs Glen Ogle, a weary struggle
for cyclists who are rewarded at the other side with a free-wheel of around 4 miles
(6km) into the village. Killin, on the A827, is a comely little place with an almost
alpine appeal, the towering hulk of Ben Lawers above it. The River Dochart runs through
the village and its falls are a popular spot for photography or just sitting on the
rocks. The Old Bridge provides a crossing over the river at this point and is set
on two islets, which form the burial ground for the Clan MacNab. Most of the clan
immigrated to Canada during the Clearances but in their time they were an aggressive
lot constantly at war with their neighbours.
This and many other tales are told in the Breadalbane
Folklore Centre overlooking the Falls of Dochart. The life and legends of this area,
known as the High Country of Scotland, is evidenced with audio-visual displays with
the ghost of St Fillan doing some of the narration. The Tourist Information Centre
is on the ground floor. Killin Golf Course is situated on the east of the village
and is said to have the most scenic closing hole in Britain. Fishing is also available
on Loch Tay and the Rivers Dochart and Lochay. Permits, at a reasonable cost, are
available from the newsagent's shop in the village as well as some hotels.
Returning west, Crainlarich, a meeting point of railway
and road networks, is also the isolated half-way point on the West Highland Way and
a good base for hill-walking especially around Ben More.
Further on, another famous crossroads is Tyndrum.
Here, the A82 carries on north to Glencoe and Fort William while the A85 branches
off for Oban and Inverary. Its status as a holiday town has rapidly grown with an
increase in facilities for tourists although it has always been popular with hill-walkers.
But for many years, local people have known that the real wealth lies in the hills.
Gold prospectors have proved that there are millions of pounds of the precious metal
beneath the surface and tunnelling has recently started in earnest.
Around Killin
Lochearnhead is the next stop, an attractive and busy
village with plenty of activity. There is boating, board-sailing, Canadian canoeing
and a water-skiing centre making the water at this end of Loch Earn almost boil on
a good day. There are also gift shops and restaurants. The A85 runs along Loch Earn's
north shore into Tayside. Loch Earn is a long stretch of water surrounded by the
high peaks of Ben Vorlich 3,231ft (985m) to the south and Ben More 3852ft (1175m)
to the west. The loch is 6 miles (10km) long running from Lochearnhead in the west
and St Fillans to the east.
The road to Killin climbs Glen Ogle, a weary struggle
for cyclists who are rewarded at the other side with a free-wheel of around 4 miles
(6km) into the village. Killin, on the A827, is a comely little place with an almost
alpine appeal, the towering hulk of Ben Lawers above it.
The River Dochart runs through the village and its
falls are a popular spot for photography or just sitting on the rocks. The Old Bridge
provides a crossing over the river at this point and is set on two islets, which
form the burial ground for the Clan MacNab. Most of the clan immigrated to Canada
during the Clearances but in their time they were an aggressive lot constantly at
war with their neighbours.
This and many other tales are told in the Breadalbane Folklore
Centre overlooking the Falls of Dochart. The life and legends of this area, known
as the High Country of Scotland, is evidenced with audio-visual displays with the
ghost of St Fillan doing some of the narration. The Tourist Information Centre is
on the ground floor.
Killin Golf Course is situated on the east of the
village and is said to have the most scenic closing hole in Britain. Fishing is also
available on Loch Tay and the Rivers Dochart and Lochay. Permits, at a reasonable
cost, are available from the newsagent's shop in the village as well as some hotels.
The west
Returning west, Crainlarich, a meeting point of railway
and road networks, is also the isolated half-way point on the West Highland Way and
a good base for hill-walking especially around Ben More. Further on, another famous
crossroads is Tyndrum. Here, the A82 carries on north to Glencoe and Fort William
while the A85 branches off for Oban and Inverary. Its status as a holiday town has
rapidly grown with an increase in facilities for tourists although it has always
been popular with hill-walkers. But for many years, local people have known that
the real wealth lies in the hills. Gold prospectors have proved that there are millions
of pounds of the precious metal beneath the surface and tunnelling has recently started
in earnest.
South-west of Stirling lie the Campsie Fells, a group
of low-lying hills that separate the pastoral Forth Valley from the populated areas
around Glasgow. This is a secret area of spruce little villages each vying to put
on the best floral displays. Most of the cottages were once mill-workers' homes as
this area was also instrumental in textile production.
The village of Flinty takes the prize when it comes
to floral flamboyance. Named the Best Kept Small Village in Scotland several times
in the past few years, one wonders at the almost fanatical zeal that must be required
to turn even the pavements into blossoming walk-ways.
Further west are Killearn and Drymen, two equally
enticing spots with a 100ft (30m) obelisk found in front of the church manse in Killearn,
commemorating George Buchanon (1506-1582) who was the tutor to King James I/VI.
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