Down the Ayrshire Coast
Around Largs
Largs is one of the most pleasant of the many resorts
that sit on the banks of the Firth of Clyde. It retains the air of a traditional
family holiday retreat with a bright and airy prospect overlooking the Clyde to the
islands of Bute and Great Cumbrae. The Promenade and much of the town's attractions,
new and old, are much improved but it is a pleasure just to stroll around this delightful
little resort.
The last sea-going paddle steamer in the world, the Waverley,
stops at Largs on its summer day trips up and down the Clyde. It also puts in at
Ayr and Millport on Great Cumbrae. The ship has a self-service restaurant, buffet,
bar and gift shop.
Skelmorlie Aisle is found in the burial ground of
a former parish church in Largs, once the Old Kirk of Largs. This unusual building
was converted into a mausoleum for the family of Sir Robert Montgomery in 1636. The
church has long since been demolished but inside the remaining structure is a boarded,
barrel-vaulted and finely painted ceiling adorned with signs of the Zodiac as well
as the imaginary coats of arms of the tribes of Israel and various biblical figures.
On the Promanade is the Vikingar Centre, essentially
a multi-media presentation that brings to life Scotland's Viking era. Adjoining it
is also a swimming complex, theatre and cinema, children's play area, craft and gift
shops. Those that have frequented the town through the years will have a soft spot
for Nordini's Café. Largs Golf Club is found on the south side of town.
About 1 mile (2km) south of the town on Bowen Crag
is the Pencil Monument, commemorating the Battle of Largs of 1263. In late August
and early September, the Largs Viking Festival attracts a large number of visitors
including Scandinavians.
Great Cumbrae
The little, lumpy island of Great Cumbrae is ideal
for a day trip taking only ten minutes to cross the strait by ferry. For those that
do not take their car, a bus service links the Cumbrae terminal with the main community
of Millport. There is plenty to do here especially in Millport but getting around
the small island, for instance by bike, is quite easy. Cycle hire is available at
Mapes of Millport in Guildford Street who also stock fishing tackle.
On the western side are views of the Island of Bute,
while to the south across the Tan, is the tiny island of Little Cumbrae. The highest
point is the Gladestain at 417ft (127m), an easy climb and well worth it for the
panorama. There is also a pleasant 18-hole golf course on the island.
Kelburn Country Centre
Back on the mainland, follow the A78 south to the entrance
to Kelburn Country Centre, just beyond the busy marina south of Largs on the left
near Fairlie. The estate surrounds a thirteenth century castle, still the home of
the Boyle family, Earls of Glasgow for three centuries and resident here for several
more. It is a mixture of diversions for most age groups, natural woodland walks with
dramatic waterfalls, secret gardens, wild flowers and leafy gorges, at certain times
of the year over-run with pheasants. For the more motivated there is a Commando Assault
Course. There is also a congenial cafe, a craft work-shop and a farmyard with an
area where children can pet the animals.
The short run from Kelburn to the next major town
of Ardrossan offers pleasant views from the coast road over to the island of Arran.
There is a spacious links golf course at West Kilbride as well as a small museum
containing a collection of Ayrshire lace and embroidery. Just inland on the B781
is Blackshaw Farm Park, a working hill farm overlooking the Clyde with plenty to
see.
Burns Country
Returning by ferry to the mainland via Ardrossan then
winding south on the A78, this is the gateway to Burns Country where the 'poet of
the people' spent most of his life.
Irvine
Irvine is sometimes referred to as a 'new town', most
of it built in the post-war era although there are vestiges of the original maritime
community surrounding the harbour area. It was once the main port serving the early
industrial endeavours of Glasgow and goods were transported to and fro by cart.
In the centre of town, the restored Glasgow Vennel
is a cobbled area where there is a museum of local antiquities and a thatched Heckling
Shop. It was here that Robert Burns enjoyed his first employment as a flax dresser
until his place of work burned down.
On the inner ring road that leads down to Irvine Harbour,
the Magnum Centre stands like a giant aeroplane hanger and from the outside it is
difficult to guess exactly what it is. This leisure facility contains an ice-rink,
a bowling alley, a theatre, cinema and swimming pool complex. There are restaurants
also.
Nearby the Scottish Maritime Museum gives some indication
of the town's past as well as a glimpse of seafaring life on the Clyde. A collection
of old vessels moored outside the dock-side museum helps to bring the era to life.
The world's oldest clipper ship, the Carrick, is on display along with an old steam
'puffer', a lifeboat and others. An intriguing tenement building has been reconstructed
next door to illustrate life in an Edwardian ship-workers home.
Kilmarnock
Kilmarnock, some 14 miles inland from Irvine, is more
industrial in its background with less tourist facilities, but associations with
Burns are quite strong. Its most famous product is Johnnie Walker Whisky, which is
exported world-wide. Tours of the distillery and bottling plant are available through
the summer months. The Dick Institute houses the town's museum, library and art gallery.
Dean Castle is an impressive fourteenth century stronghold
with dungeon and battlements set in a 200-acre (80-hectare) country park. Ancestral
home of the Boyd family, it boasts its own museum housing medieval arms and armour,
early European musical instruments and a display of Burns manuscripts. The recently
refurbished Burns Monument and statue can be seen in Kay Park.
The ancestral home of the Campbells of Loudoun, east
of Kilmarnock off the A71, was gutted by fire in 1941 and remains a stark but impressive
shell. Around it has sprung, like an invading force, Loudoun Castle Theme Park. The
array or rides include Thunder Loop and Wallace Sword along with go-carts, log flumes
and more gentle rides for younger children. A road-train provides around-the-park
transport.
Troon and Prestwick
Returning to the coast on the A78, a short distance
north of Troon is the broken walls of Dundonald Castle. Known as the 'Cradle of the
Stewarts' it was first occupied by the Fitzalans, Lord High Stewarts, from whom the
Stewart line descended.
Troon has its origins as a seaport, chiefly exporting
coal from the once many Ayrshire mines to the heavy industrial cities of England.
The town was served by Scotland's first passenger railway, which ran from Kilmarnock.
This line is still open. Now the town of Troon is renowned as a golf Mecca with the
Open Championship regularly held at Royal Troon Golf Course.
Prestwick Airport was Scotland's main international
terminal until Glasgow and Edinburgh's facilities were developed. Recently it has
regained popularity with carriers offering cheaper flights from London or Ireland.
The airport itself is now much revamped.
Prestwick town is one of Scotland's oldest burghs,
dating from around 1165. It became associated with Robert the Bruce when he gave
his name to the town's well. Legend has it that he struck the ground with his lance
at this point and water gushed forth to quench his thirst.
Prestwick is another golfing focus with the Prestwick
Old Course hosting the first ever Open championship. There are many excellent courses
along this coast. The town is well placed as a base for golfing or exploring the
area and an array of accommodation is available.
Tarbolton and Mauchline
Tarbolton is a slightly dejected little village off
the A719, north-east of Prestwick. Here was the venue for Burns and his crony's 'Batchelor's
Club', a literary and debating society formed in 1780. The National Trust for Scotland
now administers the building with a display of period furnishings within two rooms.
Further east the town of Mauchline played a major
part in Burns' life and on the outskirts of town there is the National Burns Memorial
Tower, opened in 1896. A small Tourist Information Office is found on the ground
floor and an interpretation centre on the first and second floors.
In the centre of town, Poosie Nansie's Tavern was
the inspiration for his cantata, The Jolly Beggars, and is still very much a working
pub. Across the street in Mauchline Kirkyard lie the graves of four of Burns' children.
Round the comer and just off the main street is the Burns House Museum where lived
his mistress, Jean Armor, soon to become his wife.
Ayr and Alloway
Ayr is the most popular of Ayrshire's seaside towns
and the county's largest community. It was an important seaport and trading centre
through the centuries, and subsequently became a popular resort for middle class
Victorians. Today, it is a busy and prosperous shopping hub serving a wide, surrounding
area with its main thoroughfare recently upgraded. Its beach has remained popular
for decades. Ayr Race Course is the most prestigious in Scotland. It can be difficult
to find local accommodation if there is a major racing event.
Belleisle Park is just south of Ayr with colourful
gardens, an animal petting centre and aviary as well as two excellent, municipal
golf courses. Touring golf professionals visiting nearby Turnberry or Troon are often
found on the Belleisle course, such is its reputation.
Continuing south, the outlying village of Alloway
is the centre of Burns-land, now packaged as the rather imposingly titled Burns National
Heritage Park. Alloway is the place of his birth on the 25th January 1759 and much
of the village is closely associated with some of his most famous poetry. His cottage
birthplace stands on Alloway Monument Road, a thatched 'auld clay biggin' built by
his father, well signposted and easy to find. This was Robert's home until 1766 when
the family moved to Mount Oliphant, a 70 acre (28 hectare) farm near Alloway.
The adjacent cottage to Burn's birthplace houses a
museum and gift shop with collections or original manuscripts prepared for the Kilmarnock
Edition of his poems as well as many other mementoes of the poet's life and insights
into his work.
Only a few hundred yards down the road is the ancient
Alloway Kirk where Burns' father William Burns lies buried, his grave standing opposite
the churchyard entrance. The thirteenth century Brig o' Doon has little to do with
the movie of that name, but spans the River Doon with a single arch. It is only yards
from the ghoulish Alloway Kirkyard.
Between these two is the Burns Monument and Gardens,
a landscaped grove overlooking the Doon River with a Grecian-style monument dedicated
to the poet and splendid views from its top. One of Burns' most famous poems has
been brought to life at the 'The Tam O' Shanter Experience' only a few yards from
Alloway Kirk. Presented in a 120-seater auditorium the audience is transported back
to the eighteenth century. An audio-visual tells the story of Burns. A restaurant
overlooks the centre's gardens.
South of Ayr
To continue south there is the choice of following
the coast on the A719 or taking the faster A77 route to Girvan and Stranraer, but
this misses some of this region's best attractions. Wonderwest World, formerly Butlin's
Holiday Camp, may not be one of them. Nevertheless it boasts Wonder Splash Water
World with its blue lagoon and rushing flumes. Nearby is the Heads of Ayr Farm Park
with all sorts of creatures for the kids to cozy into.
Nine miles (14km) from Ayr, Maybole is the district
of Carrick's capital, passed through on route to Turnberry or Stranraer. It has a
long High Street characterised by a distinctive and ancient clock tower, which stands
close to the spot, rumour has it, where Robert Burns' parents first met.
Crossraguel Abbey is passed on the main road south
of Maybole. Much ravished by the passage of time and stone robbers, this was a small
Cluniac monastery founded in the early thirteenth century by Duncan, Earl of Carrick
which was closely connected with Paisley Abbey.
Further on, the Electric Brae overlooking Culzean
Bay is an optical illusion that makes a vehicle appear to be rolling downhill when
it is, in fact, going up. This was first noticed when horses pulling wagons appeared
to be out of breath after apparently descending the hill. It is found on the A719,
9 miles (14km) south of Ayr.
Culzean Castle
Culzean Castle, pronounced 'Culain', is one of the
most dramatic and elegant of Robert Adam's eighteenth century creations and one of
Ayrshire's most popular attractions. Its sensational cliff-top setting can be appreciated
by walking down to the rocky shore when the tide is out.
Built between 1772 and 1792 around an ancient tower
of the Kennedy family, its sumptuous interior matches the exquisite gardens that
face it. The former Home Farm is now a visitor centre with restaurant, exhibitions
and shop.
The gardens and walks all around the estate are marvellous
especially taking in the Swan Pond and Gas House. A booklet of events taking place
on the estate is published every year and can be obtained from the tourist office
or by telephoning the number listed in the Further Information section.
Kirkoswald is a village straddling the main A77 route
south to Stranraer. Souter Johnnie's Cottage sits unassumingly on the corner, the
home of the village cobbler or soutar made famous as Tam's drinking partner in the
poem, Tam O' Shanter. The A77 is the main route linking Ayr and the rest of central
and northern Scotland to the ferry ports of Stranraer and Cairnryan to Northern Ireland.
During the summer months it can be hectic with lorries, cars and caravans.
Girvan is the last substantial town in Ayrshire, a
traditional family resort made popular following the war years. It was once a major
landing site for herring. Clustered around its harbour, it offers various seaside
diversions such as sea-angling or excursions to Ailsa Craig, the 114ft (35m) high
granite rock with a 2 mile (3km) circumference that lies 10 miles (16km) off the
coast and is now a bird sanctuary. Also known as Paddy's Milestone, it lies midway
between Glasgow and Belfast and was once famous for its fine, red granite used to
make curling stones.
A few miles inland is the village of Dailly, an old
coal mining community, down on its luck for many years but now experiencing a resurgence.
Part of the change is a new complex on its doorstep, Brunston Castle Golf Club and
Brunston Castle Holiday Resort. The course, designed by Donald Steel, has to be one
of the finest new parkland layouts in Scotland with excellent clubhouse and practice
facilities. The holiday resort is developing and offers comfortable cottages, leisure
facilities and pursuits such as fishing, pony-trekking, walking, swimming and cycling
as well as golf.
Further inland, following the B741 or taking the A713
from Ayr for around 25 minutes, you arrive at Dalmellington. This area was prominent
in the iron and coals mining era and there are various attractions grouped as Doon
Valley Heritage.
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