Aberdeen
As you approach Aberdeen's suburbs, the outline of
the grey 'Granite City' looms across the wide River Dee valley.
The Dee once formed the city's southern defences and the Bridge
of Dee, the first bridge over the Dee, completed in 1527 and widened in 1840, still
carries traffic over the river to Holburn Street which connects with the Aberdeen's
principal thoroughfare, Union Street. Alternately, carry on east towards the harbour
and join Union Street at its eastern end. Either route affords the opportunity to
appreciate the unique building material and architecture that characterise this imposing
northern Mecca.
At one time, there were around 100 quarries in and
around Aberdeen. Now there are only two and granite for Aberdeen's newer buildings
has been imported from Cornwall. The hard, glistening stone became Aberdeen's trademark
to the world and two families of architects were largely responsible for the city's
clean-cut appearance. Archibald Simpson designed many of the civic buildings along
with John Smith who, around 1804, designed several of the more classical structures
near the town centre. His work so impressed Prince Albert that he was commissioned
to design the royal castle at Balmoral.
Aberdeen has, over the past 20 years, been dubbed
the 'Houston of the North' due to the tremendous boom in oil production from the
North Sea. Fortunately for Scotland's third largest city, it was well placed to serve
this new industry and has gained from it in many ways. Unemployment in Aberdeen stands
at only around 4 per cent. Some say that Aberdeen's rugged and propitious northern
spirit has been taken over by an avaricious, commercial attitude but the essence
of Aberdeen is probably, like its tough granite buildings, quite robust and should
withstand this modern onslaught.
The 'Flower of Scotland' is another more recent epithet
given to the city, perhaps to try and soften its image of hard granite and hard working
oil men. Every spring and summer there are explosions of colour along the city's
streets and in its many parks. In March and April, 11 million daffodils form rivers
of efflorescence throughout the city. Aberdeen has won the Britain in Bloom contest
so many times that it has been barred from the competition.
A true Aberdeen accent referred to as 'the Doric'
can be as hard to follow as any foreign tongue, even for other Scots.
Aberdeen Harbour
Aberdeen Harbour is a fascinating place to wander
at most times, but early on a weekday morning it provides a spectacle that takes
place around the fish market where the fresh catch is auctioned. The local fishing
fleet is now much reduced with only around twenty trawlers using Aberdeen Harbour,
leaving room for the many oil supply vessels. This is the most modern, medium-sized
harbour in Europe with three main docks.
Aberdeen is linked to Lerwick in Shetland, Orkney,
the Faro Islands and now Norway by P&O's ferries sailing regularly from the harbour.
The New Maritime Museum, situated on the old cobbled
street of Shiprow, has recently been much-extended incorporating Provost Ross's House,
the third oldest building in Aberdeen, constructed in 1593. The £4 million
development highlights the drama of the North Sea industries using models, paintings,
touch screen consoles and audio-visual theatre.
On the northern shore of the mouth of the River Dee
stands the conservation village of Footdee, pronounced locally as'Fitee'. Built in
the early 1800s when the original fishing village was demolished to make way for
harbour extensions, it is still a very close-knit community. All the houses face
inward onto two squares so as to ward off the worst of the north-east winds.
A No.14 bus from Union Street bound for 'Sea Beach'
will take you there, otherwise drive towards the beach and turn right until you meet
the harbour.
From the outer harbour walls a group of bottlenose dolphins
frequent the river mouth and are often seen. Along Beach Esplanade there are various
diversions such as Codona's Amusement Centre and the Beach Ballroom as well as recommended
cafes and ice-cream parlours. The beach comprises clean, fine sand and the sustained
breakers provide sport for the largest windsurfing club in Great Britain.
As the capital of the Grampian area, renowned for
castles, it is surprising that Aberdeen no longer has one of its own. In the early
1300s the city's fortification was burned to avoid occupation by the garrisons of
Edward I. Aberdeen's castle lay just beyond the foot of Union Street, the busy main
thoroughfare linking the older part of the city to its westward expansion.
Union Street
Planned over 200 years ago, Union Street's construction
nearly made the city bankrupt and it is worth observing more closely the bridges
and buildings that span this once very uneven terrain. Union Street is the main shopping
precinct with the enclosed Bon Accord and St Nicholas Centres housing most popular
shops.
The east end of Union Street and its adjoining streets
are marked with several of the best examples of Aberdeen's architecture. Provost
Skene's House, near the shopping centres, is a restored domestic building dating
from 1545 and now a museum of civic life with furnished period rooms and a painted
chapel.
Around the corner on Broad Street stands the neo-Gothic
Marischal College, the second largest granite building in the world. It houses Marischal
Museum, a remarkable display of items collected by the University's graduates from
around the world as well as tracing the history of north-east Scotland from prehistoric
times.
Founded in 1593 as a Protestant University, although
the present-day buildings date from the nineteenth century, Marischal is regarded
as the finest achievement in granite masonry. The building is in need of a clean-up
to emphasise its fine, filigreed spires but it is, never the less, most impressive.
There is a current rumour that it might be bought and converted in to a hotel.
Schoolhill is an appealing side-street just beyond
the St Nicholas Centre with arty shops and the Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museum in
its purpose built building of 1884. It has a good collection of paintings, sculpture,
silver, glass and hosts a variety of temporary exhibits.
The house of James Dun is across the road. He was
the master of Aberdeen Grammar School in 1769 and his home now houses modern art
exhibitions along with audio-visual presentations and information of the town's history.
Further up and into Rosemount Viaduct is the gracious,
solitary shape of His Majesty's Theatre, a delightful Georgian building and the city's
main concert hall with seating for 1,500. At the west end of Union Street where it
joins Holburn Street and off to the left near the cinemas, you will find the Sratosphere,
an imaginative science and technology encounter with plenty of hands on experiments
for kids of any age.
As a spin off from the oil industry and its wealth,
there are plenty good restaurants in Aberdeen. One of the best at the west end of
Union Street is the 'Courtyard of the Lane' in Alford Street. The lower Martha's
Vineyard Bistro is a lighter, simpler menu while the Courtyard upstairs is more serious.
Accommodation in Aberdeen tends to cater for business
visitors and is generally expensive through the working week, but very good deals
can be found at weekends.
Old Aberdeen
From the centre of town, it is around a 15-minute bus ride
to Old Aberdeen using a number 20 or any bus going north on Kings Street. If you
are driving, follow Kings Street to St Machar Drive on the left and the Chanonry,
the narrow lane leading to the heart of Old Aberdeen, is on the right.
This is the most historic part of town that was, in
fact, an independent burgh from 1489 until 1891 and it still maintains its own Town
House. It also retains its air of independence with narrow, cobbled streets and well
preserved seventeenth and eighteenth century architecture, quite dissimilar from
that of the more modern city.
King's College and its chapel, founded by the Bishop
William Elphinstone in 1495, are the main focus of the area. The chapel is diminutive
but most impressive with the original carved stalls lining the chancel and nave and
an intricately carved rood screen. The stained glass windows are by Douglas Strachan.
Adjacent is the King's College Visitor Centre which
presents a multimedia display of the university's history over 500 years. It has
a restaurant and rather refined little gift shop.
Following the cobbled Chanonry north to St Machar's
Cathedral, this structure was founded in AD580 by Machar, a follower of St Columba,
as a centre for their northern propagation of Christianity.
The present cathedral's foundation dates from 1130
although it was considerably larger than the twin-spired west front left today. The
central tower collapsed in 1688. Inside is a splendid heraldic ceiling of the sixteenth
century with nineteenth and twentieth century stained glass.
St Machars sits on the edge of Seaton Park with its
riverside and woodland walks. The Brig o' Balgownie spans the River Don much as it
has since 1329 when it was the main crossing of the river. The poet Lord Byron who
stayed in this area, often crossed it and stared into its 'pool of bewitchment'.
Anderson Drive is the main circular route around Aberdeen
and this leads on to the A93, which passes through Cults, Peterculter and Maryculter
and the beginning of Royal Deeside.
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